The Best Saltwater Fishing Lines: Expert Guide for Every Angler

You must use the right fishing line when fishing in saltwater environments. Due to the corrosive nature of saltwater and salty air, you need to be able to trust your line to withstand these harsh conditions—at least for some time. 

Picking the right line can often be difficult, considering various factors. These factors include price, color, stretch, strength, thickness, and more. Choosing a freshwater fishing line is already challenging; now, add the corrosive element of saltwater, and you have a real conundrum. 

While this choice may seem daunting, I will guide you through the selection process in this article, giving you all the information you need to choose the best line for your saltwater fishing adventures. 

Before we start, I want to highlight a resource that has helped me become a better angler—the Fishbox. The Fishbox App uses real data and metrics to provide accurate angling insights that can elevate your fishing game. You can even take the quiz linked below to start your journey of using technology and data to improve your catch rate. 

Without any further delay, let’s get straight into the article.

Why You Need a Specialized Saltwater Fishing Line

Corrosion and Durability Challenges of Saltwater:

The salt in the air and water quickly accelerates fishing gear’s decomposition and degradation process—not just the fishing line. 

You’re choosing a line that can delay this breakdown for as long as possible while retaining most, if not all, of its original qualities. 

You’ll never find a line that needs to be changed; however, we can find certain lines that offer more longevity than others. In summary, it does not matter if you’ll have to replace your line, but when. 

In this article, I will show you how to delay that replacement by selecting the right line.

Strength and Abrasion Resistance:

Saltwater fishing often comes with unique challenges that we don’t encounter as much when fishing in freshwater, and we should expect our line to change accordingly. 

For example, when fishing in freshwater, we rarely have to worry about our line chafing on oysters or coral like we would in saltwater. Additionally, most freshwater fish aren’t as toothy as some of the creatures found in saltwater. 

In summary, we need specialized lines to withstand the harsh environments we often face in saltwater fishing.

UV Exposure: 

As you might expect, saltwater fishing often comes with much more time on the water, resulting in more sun exposure for the fishing line. 

This UV radiation greatly speeds up the process of breaking down, so we need to be careful to select lines that are more resistant to this.

Knot Strength:

We need a line whose knots will hold for a while, even in harsh conditions. If we cannot trust the strength of our knots because of our line, we may consider switching to a more specialized saltwater line.

Knot Strength:

Water conditions are often more variable when fishing in saltwater than in freshwater. 

For example, in saltwater, there is often far more current, tide, and wind than when fishing in freshwater, which can greatly affect the performance of your fishing line. 

To best adapt to the water conditions, a specialized saltwater line will have to be used to increase the longevity of our spools.

Saltwater vs. Freshwater Line Differences:

Fortunately for you guys reading, we have covered many of these differences. 

All I would say to summarize this section is that freshwater is far less taxing on the health of the fishing line due to calm and less corrosive conditions as well as minimal sharp structure compared to saltwater.

Read also: The Best Saltwater Fishing Rigs Every Angler Should Know

Types of Saltwater Fishing Lines

Monofilament

Pros: The monofilament fishing line is popular among saltwater anglers. Some of the reasons for this include its stretch. Mono can stretch a bit, giving you more forgiveness and allowing for fewer hook pullouts. It’s also cheaper than the other options for the line. Mono is also very visible and can be seen clearly, even far away. Tying knots with mono is also easier, and they don’t tend to slip quite as much.

Cons: Believe it or not, the characteristic stretch of mono can also be a con because it can stretch when you don’t want it to, such as when you are trying to quickly pull fish off the bottom. Additionally, mono has less abrasion resistance and more memory than both braid and fluoro. Lastly, monofilament has a shorter lifespan due to its weakness against UV.

Best Uses: In my experience, live bait trolling offshore is one of the best uses for monofilament fishing lines. Sometimes, you need the forgiveness that the extra stretch offers so that you don’t pull a hook out of a soft mouth. This is also true for trolling in general, which often comes with quick and hard strikes. Mono can be ideal for topwater fishing because the line floats. This means the line does not impede the topwater lure. Lastly, monofilaments’ high visibility is helpful when running multiple lines, which allows you to see them more easily.

Braid

Pros: Another hugely popular fishing line and the fishing line that I generally prefer for almost all saltwater applications. First off, the braid has very little stretch at all. While less forgiving, it gives the fish no extra ground other than the drag you have applied. Second, the braid has good abrasion resistance and can chafe a little bit before giving way completely. Third, braids have virtually no memory at all. Fourth, the strength-to-diameter ratio on the braid is far higher than any other line. Basically, I’m saying that the same-strength monofilament will be significantly thicker than the braid, which is not ideal for packing a ton of line on reels (if filling with mono). Lastly, the braid is very UV resistant, which makes it great for longevity.

Cons: Braid is great, but it also has some downsides. First, the braid is fairly visible underwater, which is not optimal. Second, it’s more expensive than mono, which can add up if you have a bigger reel. Third and by far my biggest con is the fact that it can wind knot and get tangled on the reel fairly easily.

Best Uses: Braid is very good when fishing cover, but you might sometimes need to yank your line out of it. Additionally, braid is great for grouper fishing because it doesn’t stretch, meaning the fish can’t get any extra ground on you other than what your drag allows. It is amazing when paired with a fluorocarbon leader.

Fluorocarbon

Pros: As you expect from the highest-end fishing line, fluorocarbon has some great pros. First, it is nearly impossible to see when underwater, making it great for stealth or finicky fish. Second, it has very high abrasion resistance. Third, it has great UV resistance and can last longer than mono and braid. Fourth, it is a very sensitive line. Lastly, fluorocarbon is a great choice for leaders.

Cons: While fluorocarbon is great, it also has some cons. First, it does have a bit of memory. Second, it is by far the most expensive of the three lines that we have talked about thus far. Lastly, it can get hard and brittle over time. It will retain most of its strength, but some action will be taken away.

Best Uses: Fluorocarbon is a great choice for leader material as it combines the best of both worlds. I generally tie a fluorocarbon leader onto a braid mainline to optimize stealth, strength, and line capacity. Fluoro is also ideal for stealth applications or when fish are finicky because it is very hard to see underwater.

Visual

I created a visual for all visual learners reading this article. It summarizes all the pros and cons from above and puts them in an easy-to-follow table.

Characteristic:	Monofilament	Braid	Fluorocarbon
Stretch	High – good shock absorption	Very low – high sensitivity	Low – better sensitivity than mono
Abrasion Resistance	Moderate – can wear quickly in saltwater	High – strong against rocks and coral	Very high – excellent around structure
Water Absorption	Absorbs water – weakens over time	Does not absorb water	Minimal water absorption
UV Resistance	Degrades quickly with UV exposure	Excellent resistance	Excellent resistance
Buoyancy	Floats – ideal for topwater	Floats – good for various applications	Sinks – better for deep-water or stealth
Visibility Underwater	High – easily seen	Moderate – usually visible	Low – nearly invisible underwater
Line Memory	High – coils and tangles easily	Very low – minimal memory	Moderate – some memory
Knot Strength	Good – easy to tie and holds well	Good – requires proper knots	Can be tricky – lubricate and cinch slowly
Sensitivity	Low – stretch dampens feel	Excellent – great bite detection	Good – better than mono
Durability/Longevity	Lower – needs more frequent replacement	Very high – lasts long	High – durable in harsh environments
Cost	Low – budget-friendly	Moderate to high	High – most expensive
Best Uses	Topwater, trolling, beginners	Deep water, heavy cover, long casts	Leader material, finesse, clear water

How to Choose the Best Line for Saltwater Fishing

Type of Fishing

When debating what lines to buy, one of the most important things you need to consider is the type of fishing you are doing. Each type of fishing below requires different things and tactics that may influence your line choice. In this section, I plan on teaching you risk assessment and how that plays into line choice.

• Inshore: If you’re fishing inshore, there generally isn’t too much to worry about outside of cover. Consider different things like weeds, grass, oyster beds, and more. Because there is some sharp cover, I would highly recommend a more abrasion-resistant line, which is braided or fluorocarbon. Better yet, use a braid with a fluorocarbon leader.
• Offshore: When fishing offshore, one of the biggest things you should consider is the strength of the fish and its ability to run. Because the possibilities of what you can catch offshore are vast, I highly recommend having a good bit of line capacity on the reel. This can be done using bigger reels with monofilament or smaller ones with braid.
• Surf: When surf fishing, you want to use a line good for casting long distances. There are two options here. First, you could use a braid, which can cast further. The only downside is the potential of bad wind knots. Second, you could use mono, but then you must deal with the stretch. You must weigh this and decide for yourself. I have always preferred braids because I can have more lines on the spools.
• Pier: Pier fishing is a little bit weird. You want to maximize casting distance, but you also don’t want too much stretch in the line so that if your fish wants to run into other lines of the pier, you can lock down your drag, and it won’t move.
• Kayak: Kayak fishing is simply a combination of the above. You could kayak fishing inshore or offshore, so refer to the above sections for more information.

Target Species

Another important factor to consider when deciding on what line to use is the fish that you are targeting. Plan accordingly.

• Teeth/Skin: If you know the species you are targeting has either rough skin or teeth that the line could rub up against, you need to pick the most abrasion-resistant line. This would be either braid or fluorocarbon. If those teeth are very sharp, I would also heavily consider stepping up to a wire leader. To find success on the water, you need to be able to identify where your weak spots are and minimize them as best as you can. Changing your fishing line to adapt to the target species is one way.
• Behavior: Additionally, you need to know what the fish generally likes to do. Does it dive straight down and look for cover on the bottom when hooked? Is the fish very picky? Does it make hard and fast runs? These are all great questions you should ask when determining what fishing line is right for you. If a species is known for going straight down to the bottom when hooked, you would want to minimize line stretch and maximize abrasion resistance. As a result, braid and mono would be your best bet. If your fish makes hard and fast runs but you worry about the hook pulling out of the fish’s soft mouth—then use mono. If your fish is very leader-shy, you need to use fluoro. For example, amberjacks love to dive straight down into cover to break you off when hooked. On the other hand, king mackerel have softer mouths and take blistering runs. These are two real-world examples of where line type could make or break you.

Line Weight

Another huge factor is picking the best saltwater fishing line. Obviously, the line strengths across the different types of lines are the same, but how do you know how heavy your line should be? This is where I would encourage you to research your target species and ask more experienced fishermen—they will be happy to help you. For my purposes, I run a 20–25-pound braid when fishing inshore and nearshore, and I switch to a 65-pound braid when fishing offshore—especially when bottom fishing.

Water Clarity

Water clarity is another big factor; however, this issue is far less complex than the others. The clearer the water, the easier the fish can see your line. If the water is murkier, what line you use doesn’t matter much. If the water is very clear—it very much matters. When the water is clear, I would highly recommend at least a fluorocarbon leader, as it is very hard to see in the water.

Compatibility

One of the last things you need to check is if your line is compatible with your reel and rod. Most rods and reels have the line weights on them; if not, go online to ensure you are using recommended lines on the reels and rods. These aren’t stupid suggestions; they are there so you know where the reel is most optimized and what kind of line.

Deep Sea Fishing Line Considerations

Importance of Strength and Depth Capability: 

Line strength is extremely important, as I just touched on. Yes, you can land fish on a lighter line than recommended. People do this all the time, on purpose, to break records and prove their skill in light tackle. This is great, but I’m trying to get the fish in as safely and quickly as possible. 

There are times for light tackle, but at the end of the day, light tackle may not be the best move regarding the greatest chance to land that trophy fish. 

Line strength, line capacity, and depth capability are other important considerations. You must have the capacity on your reel to stand against the fish. 

If that fish runs 300 yards away, you must have enough line to where you don’t get completely schooled. 

Always keep your reel capacity in mind and plan accordingly.

Shock Absorption for Big Fish: 

When bigger fish offshore smoke one of your baits, they can easily hit it so hard that the drag doesn’t go off immediately. This is precisely why no one ever really fishes straight braid to hook. 

Sometimes, you need a bit of stretch when these fish hit to prevent a hook from immediately pulling or the line from even breaking. This being said, running a fluorocarbon or even monofilament leader can be vastly beneficial if a monster strikes. 

Always run some sort of leader—trust me on this one.

Best Line Setups for Deep Sea Fishing: 

As I just mentioned, having some kind of leader is vastly important for any deep-sea setup. Past that, it’s totally up to preference.

For my best setup, I will almost always spool my reel with an entire braid and then connect that to a fluorocarbon leader with a double-uni knot. 

That way, I get high abrasion resistance, high sensitivity, high reel capacity, a little stretch, and stealth. 

While this may not be the cheapest option, I find it the most effective.

Tips for Spooling and Line Maintenance: 

Honestly, there are only a few tips I can give you guys to help with line maintenance and spooling. 

First, when spooling your line, be sure that the line has a good bit of tension and is tight. If you do this, you can fit more lines on the spool and have less risk of wind knots and tangles. 

For line maintenance, I highly recommend changing your line every year or two, and then every single time you fish, you need to wash off your spools to keep the saltwater off of them. 

Lastly, I recommend keeping your line out of direct sunlight as much as possible to prevent UV damage.

Tips for Maintaining Your Saltwater Fishing Line

• Rinsing and Cleaning After Use: 

Every time you go fishing, it is imperative that you rinse your rods and reels and line off after using them. 

If you don’t, saltwater and salt will cling to the line and degrade its quality even faster than it normally would. 

There’s no great way to clean your lines, but soap your spools and reels after using them all day is never a bad idea.

• Storing Lines Properly: 

When storing your lines, keep them away from moisture and salt air if you can, as this will corrode the line. Instead, I recommend keeping them indoors or in a closed space where the line won’t degrade as quickly.

• When and How to Replace Lines: 

Over time, fishing lines will inevitably lose their strength. Sometimes, this is very easy to tell, as you can break heavier-weight lines with your hands. Other times, it may look or feel like there’s no difference. If you notice the line weakening, you should replace it immediately. 

Even if you don’t notice any obvious signs, I recommend changing your line every year or two, depending on how much it was used. It’s also not uncommon to replace your line multiple times yearly due to wear and tear. 

When replacing your line, you have three options: The first and safest option is to take your reel to a tackle shop and have them spool it for you. The second option is to purchase your reel-spooling device. The third is the DIY route—grab a pencil and a friend to hold the spool. 

The trick with this method is to maintain consistent tension on the line while reeling. This helps prevent tangles and wind knots later on. 

If you’re spooling your reel at home without a machine, I recommend mounting your reel on your rod first. Then, thread the line through the rod’s guides toward the reel. From there, open the bail if you’re using a spinning reel, tie the line around the spool, close the bail, and begin reeling to fill your spool.

Read also: The Complete Guide to Types of Fishing Reels

• Avoiding Line Memory and Tangles: 

This is sort of a trick question. With both monofilament and fluorocarbon, you will inevitably have some line memory just from the line on the spool, and there’s not much you can do about it. 

However, I highly recommend spooling your line as tightly as possible to prevent tangles. These knots happen because the line is loose on the spool, and some of it falls off when you cast. 

That loose line gets caught up with the line flying off the reel. Spool the reel with tension, and you’ll be fine. 

This won’t completely prevent wind knots, but it will help substantially.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Conclusion

As you can hopefully tell after reading this article, choosing the right fishing line when fishing in saltwater is hugely important. The right line can distinguish between a great fishing day and a heartbreaking one. I hope you have enjoyed learning about one of the most important topics in fishing. Feel free to ask any questions, and I look forward to hearing what you guys think of this article. As always, good luck and tight lines!

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